Get the Most From Your 3D Printer
First print failing? Pick your printer and get the rest of the kit: filament that won't string, a nozzle set, bed adhesion that actually works, and the small tools you'll reach for every week.
Step 1
What did you get?
Select from common options or type in your specific model.
Browse by product
In-depth guides for specific models.
Frequently asked questions
The questions people ask most about getting started with 3d printer.
What accessories do I need for my 3D printer?
Essentials beyond filament: a digital caliper, a quality scraper or thin spatula for removing prints, replacement nozzles in 0.4mm and 0.6mm, a print bed adhesive (glue stick or 3DLAC), and a small toolkit (hex keys, tweezers, deburring tool). For FDM: a brass nozzle cleaning needle and replacement PTFE tube. For resin: nitrile gloves, a wash and cure station, and a UV-blocking enclosure are non-negotiable.
What filament should a beginner buy?
PLA. It prints at low temperature, doesn't warp much, sticks to most beds without effort, and is non-toxic in normal use. Bambu Lab PLA Basic, Polymaker PolyTerra, and Prusament are all reliable. PETG is the next step up for outdoor or higher-temperature parts. Avoid ABS until you have an enclosure and ventilation — the fumes are real.
Do I need an enclosure for 3D printing?
For PLA: optional. For PETG: helpful but not required. For ABS, ASA, polycarbonate, or nylon: yes, required — these warp and crack without controlled chamber temperature. An enclosure also reduces noise and contains particulate emissions, which is worth doing in a bedroom or office regardless of filament.
How do I get prints to stick to the bed?
First-layer adhesion is the most common failure mode. The fixes, in order: level the bed (auto-leveling helps but check the Z-offset), clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol before every print, use the right surface for your filament (textured PEI or BuildTak for most), and apply a thin layer of glue stick or 3DLAC for problem prints. Print speed for the first layer should be 50% of normal.
FDM or resin — which should I get first?
FDM (filament) for functional parts, prototypes, and large prints. Resin for miniatures, jewelry, and anything needing fine detail. FDM is messier in some ways but resin is genuinely toxic — uncured resin is a skin sensitizer and the fumes require a vented space. Most beginners start with FDM (Bambu Lab P1S, Bambu A1) and add resin later only if the use case demands it.
How much does it cost to run a 3D printer?
Filament: $20–$30 per kg, which prints roughly 50–100 small parts. Electricity: $0.05–$0.15 per hour of print time, depending on local rates. Wear parts (nozzles, bed surface, belts) over a year of regular use: $30–$80. The hidden cost is failed prints — expect to scrap 5–10% of material in the first month while you dial things in.
Do I need ventilation for 3D printing?
For PLA in a well-ventilated room: probably fine. For ABS, ASA, nylon, or any resin printing: yes, required. Particulate emissions and VOCs are real and have been measured in studies. Either vent to outside (a window fan with the printer in an enclosure works) or run a HEPA + carbon filter unit nearby. Don't sleep in the same room as a running ABS or resin printer.